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Starting a Full Sun Flower Bed

Updated: Apr 16, 2024


There's nothing merrier than a healthy garden in full sun. Here are some tips to get you started.


After some plant suggestions? Check out the resources page for plant lists for the Northern Tablelands, NSW.


Preparation


When it comes to a garden bed you really do get out what you put in. Not literally of course, but if you are willing to make an effort you will be greatly rewarded with hundreds of flowers for years to come.


  • Location: when selecting a spot for a full sun flower bed, make sure it receives at least 6 hours of sun a day in all seasons. Don't make the mistake of planting on the southern side of a building in summer only to find it is shaded throughout winter.

  • Drainage: water also needs to drain away or it will rot roots. Digging into the soil and adding organic matter can help, or alternatively you can raise the soil level (just don't raise the soil level around established trees).

  • Soil health: absolutely critical to garden success is soil health. Soil is not simply a container, it is lives and breathes and eats. Time spent researching soil health is a worthwhile investment in your garden. To start you off, see this video or this fact sheet.


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Design


Before you buy a hundred different plants and plonk everything in willy-nilly, spend more than just a moment on design. Beautiful gardens are carefully curated before even a single speck of dirt is turned.


  • Plan to add some shrubs. Having a dense green backdrop will make your flowers stand out even more. Try evergreens like Viburnum, Pittosporum Golf Ball, Escallonia and Hebe - all frost hardy. Keep them rounded or trimmed to your preferred shape.

  • Place shorter plants or ground covers at the front of the garden bed and taller plants at the back (or the middle if it is an island). Think fourth-dimensionally - plants grow for years!

  • Try to avoid clashing colours next to each other or stick to a palette of 3 colours in a certain area eg white, blue, purple. Green doesn't count.

  • Don't forget, Merry Garden Consulting can help of course!!



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Maintenance


  • Consider an irrigation set up as annual plants have shallow roots so can only access water close to the surface. An occasional wash with the hose is probably not going to be enough for your plants to look their best.

  • Mulch mulchy mulch. It is so important for water retention and soil health.

  • Don't be scared to brutally cut back your spreading perennials if they are starting to take over. They'll come back! Just be sure to cover the bare soil with mulch. Similarly, if seedlings from last season's annual plants are rampant, remove the ones you don't want. It's your garden, you're the boss.

  • Deadhead flowers to get more flowers.

  • Fertiliser: adding organic matter such as quality compost and mulch is the most effective way to keep soil (and therefore plants) healthy. That being said, there is definitely a place for commercial fertiliser especially for speciality plants like roses. Research the types you feel comfortable using and follow the label carefully.

  • Weed control: The best method is to pull them out by hand when they are small. Try to keep on top of it as best you can. And be comforted knowing that a weed is just a plant in the wrong spot. If you want it there, viola! It is no longer a weed (unless it is a noxious weed. See https://www.newa.com.au/ for more info). Poison sprays are best left to the professionals.

  • Lastly, spend lots of time pottering and inspecting and gazing. It's immensely enjoyable but will also help you learn faster and get on top of issues as they arise.


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Glossary


Annual: A plant that starts from seed, grows to maturity, produces lots of seeds, then dies all within a year.

Deadhead: the process of removing spent flowers before they go to seed. The plant responds by making more flowers.

Evergreen: Keeps leaves all year.

Perennial: A plant that lives for more than two years.


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